research
WEAVING
/1/
WEAVING
2013 / RESEARCH / CAPUCHAS / crafts / portuguese tradition / textileS
Until a few decades ago, hand weaving was the most widespread home industry in the north of Portugal.
The making of fabrics was an essential task in the majority of low subsistence, largely self-sufficient, rural communities. Multipurpose woven fabrics, weather for common, everyday use, or as part of a jealously guarded family trousseau, were the result of a long process of essentially domestic manufacture in which all stages of the production and preparation of the textiles were carried out within a close family unity.
Domestic weaving consists simply of the interweaving of threads with the aid of a weaver’s loom. The loom, in general, consists of two frames which are worked by a pedal and a reed, which is like a comb. This wooden loom is traditionally used for the domestic production of linen, silk, wool and rag materials.
/2/
SOUND PIECE ABOUT THE ARTISANAL PROCESS OF MAKING A CAPUCHA
BY MAILIS RODRIGUES
For the past few years we have been working in collaboration with Maria da Luz, a weaver from a small village in the North of Portugal, and Helena Cardoso, a textile artist and designer, to develop a series of hand weavings in wool, linen and silk.
When in 2013 we developed the 1st collection of capuchas (capes), we designed a specific model with the cowl and the right flap decorated with handmade "burel" embroideries. Inside the flap, there’s a handmade linen, silk and wool weaving, secured by fine tulle and by the outside burel embroideries.
Inspired by the ways and means of artisanal manufacturing, we have repurposed leftover material from our previous cape collection gave way to the design of a small edition of tote bags in bUrel, embellished with silk, linen and wool threads.
research
WEAVING
/1/
WEAVING
2013 / RESEARCH / CAPUCHAS / crafts / portuguese tradition / textileS
Until a few decades ago, hand weaving was the most widespread home industry in the north of Portugal.
The making of fabrics was an essential task in the majority of low subsistence, largely self-sufficient, rural communities. Multipurpose woven fabrics, weather for common, everyday use, or as part of a jealously guarded family trousseau, were the result of a long process of essentially domestic manufacture in which all stages of the production and preparation of the textiles were carried out within a close family unity.
Domestic weaving consists simply of the interweaving of threads with the aid of a weaver’s loom. The loom, in general, consists of two frames which are worked by a pedal and a reed, which is like a comb. This wooden loom is traditionally used for the domestic production of linen, silk, wool and rag materials.
/2/
SOUND PIECE ABOUT THE ARTISANAL PROCESS OF MAKING A CAPUCHA
BY MAILIS RODRIGUES
For the past few years we have been working in collaboration with Maria da Luz, a weaver from a small village in the North of Portugal, and Helena Cardoso, a textile artist and designer, to develop a series of hand weavings in wool, linen and silk.
When in 2013 we developed the 1st collection of capuchas (capes), we designed a specific model with the cowl and the right flap decorated with handmade "burel" embroideries. Inside the flap, there’s a handmade linen, silk and wool weaving, secured by fine tulle and by the outside burel embroideries.
Inspired by the ways and means of artisanal manufacturing, we have repurposed leftover material from our previous cape collection gave way to the design of a small edition of tote bags in bUrel, embellished with silk, linen and wool threads.
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